Sunday, November 14, 2010

My local market turns....

About a week ago I had an especially nice conversation with my dad. It was one of those conversations that reminds me that what I am doing here truly is a dream. It is so easy to get wrapped up in the daily stresses of life and to forget that this truly is a grand adventure. So after this conversation I head out to the souk (market) to buy a Happy Birthday helium balloon for a little girl in my class. I am walking with a spring in my step that had been missing for awhile as I dealt with the stress of school and report cards and thoughts of how do I help Ahmed understand living things without using any language and how do I grade a child who can’t communicate with me and how do I find more ways to challenge Abdellai and how do I…and on and on (not their real names of course). But on this particular night I felt it. I felt like I truly was living a dream. I walked around in my own little world, when suddenly I smell…farm animals?! Strange because I am in the market that I go to every day. I look around and sure enough about 30 sheep and rams right there in the middle of the market. Some of them are trying to wonder off, walking out in front of cars in true Egyptian fashion. Men and young boys hit them with sticks to keep them where they want them. I keep walking and then right there out of nowhere in front of a café that I like to go to, tied to a tree, are two cows. Just hanging out outside of the café as if someone had tied them up while they ran inside the way we would a dog. I giggle to myself then further down the road…more livestock. Of course I am not naive enough to assume that this really was what it looked like: my souk turned into a petting zoo. But there were so many animals that I did question what they could be for - surely there are too many for them to be used just for meat. I think about how hilarious and odd my life is. And then I remember my assitant principal telling me, in a discussion about what my grade ones were going to do to celebrate the upcoming Hajj (a pilgrimage to Mecca, Saudi Arabia that Muslims make annually) that the symbol is a lamb, because they perform a lot of sacrifices. Oh...my poor little friends.

I have since researched this a little more. During Hajj, Muslims commemorate the trials of the Prophet Abraham. Most notably, he was commanded by Allah (God) to kill his only son, Ishmael. He prepared to do this but then Allah intervened, and called out to them stating that his intention was enough and told him to replace his son with a ran to sacrifice instead. So Muslims now slaughter an animal (typically a goat, sheep or ram but can also be a cow for the very wealthy). They then keep a third of the animal for themselves, give a third to family and friends and a third to the poor.

So my friends in the souk are waiting for people to come choose them. A number will then be drawn right on the animal and the family will come and feed their animal over the coming days. Then on the day of Eid they will come sacrifice the animal. Traditionally the person is supposed to perform the sacrifice themselves but they can also have someone do it for them but they should be present to watch. This is how I understand it anyway from what I have read and conversation that I have had. I have been visiting my "petting zoo" over the last few days and dreading the day when it returns to what it was.

Thursday, October 28, 2010

A weekend on the coast





This happened awhile ago but I thought it was worth writing about so
here it is.....a two month overdue post about our trip to Alexandria.








In an effort to escape the heat and the intensity of Cairo and to take advantage of the a few days off before school starts (a vacation that occurs at the end of Ramadan) we head to the coast of the Mediterranean. Alexandria, founded by Alexander the Great, is the second largest city in Egypt and historically was super important. It was the capital for nearly a thousand years and home to one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. It does still have the catacombs, one of the Seven Wonders of the Middle Ages. Anyway enough of that...



We took the metro to the train station. Fasting was about to end for the day and as the time approached we saw people running around handing dates out to everyone so that everyone would have something to eat. I remember thinking that it was so beautiful and so rare to see everyone come together like that. On the train, Billy, my Arabic speaking American teacher friend befriends this man (who speaks no English). Billy spent the three hour train ride in a very intense discussion about Islam while having smoke blown in his face. Little did we know, this conversation would later save our whole trip.

So turns out this man, Ali is friends with a taxi driver who is coming to pick him up from the train station. He offers to drive us to a hotel and so we agree. We arrive and go to check in and....well I am not proud of this next part but in my defense let me make a few statements: we have been living in Egypt long enough now that we don't really feel like tourists and apparently this means that we don't think about requiring a passport and also normally when you travel
you don't have a home so you have everything with you - so you don't think about the fact that you are asked for your passport when you check into a hotel. Plus, we were really only leaving the city....I think about needing a pas
sport to leave the country. Yes, ok so we did not bring our passports. All three of us. Yes it is true. I would not tell this story out of sheer embarrassment but unfortunately it is necessary for the rest of the story. Anyway so our first thought is "ok we will go back to the train station and take the next train back to Cairo" BUT of course we just got off the last train of the evening so this isn't possible. We then think "ok well we will wonder around the city all night or sleep on the beach and take the next train back in the morning". Of course we are not thrilled with this option but we try to be as optimistic as possible. Our buddy Ali and his cab driver friend Ayman are still with us at this point and they suggest that we hire Ayman to drive us around and then we can see some of the sights (albeit in the dark), have somewhere to leave our bags,
and somewhere to nap if we want. So we agree to this - sounds better than the alternative. Then Ali starts making calls and buzzing around in Arabic and then announces that he has found us a friend of his who rents out his apartment and we can rent it for the weekend. Hmmmm sounded suspicious BUT keep in mind that we were pretty desperate at this point and we justified it by saying that it isn't like he offered this sketchy deal right from the beginning - he would have been perfectly happy to leave us at the hotel (if w
e hadn't been so dumb!) Anyway so as we drive there we decide that if their plan isn't to kidnap and rob us and if this is all a legitimate attempt to help we will stay no matter what...it could be an empty filthy room with just a floor and I would sleep there.

So we get there and we nervously climb the stairs and open the door a
nd immediately are hit with this beautiful ocean breeze - oh wait, it is coming from the most amazing sea view you can imagine.
We step out onto the balcony (see picture taken from this balcony above) and I decide right then that I could live there forever - even if their master plan has something to do with kidnapping the foreigners. We can only imagine what they are planning to charge us for this beautiful, furnished, full kitchen, two bathroom loveliness. We all sit down and everyone lights cigarettes and they ask us how we like it - we express our delight at the place in broken Arabic. Then they get serious and the bartering begin. Ali, it turns out is a master negotiater. It was an intense round of negotiations and on more than one occasion I thought Ali was going to get up and hit someone or throw something and then he would be laughing and poking the guy in the stomach in this sweet playful manner, like you would do a toddler. And the man would giggle. Very odd. Anyway, I am lost and just sit there like a fool totally enthralled by this interaction. Then Ali turns to us and t
ells us a price (I can't remember what it was now but something in the vicinity of the equivalent of like 25 dollars each). What?! Yes please, and by the way, can I stay forever?! We don't have passports so Ali puts up his I.D for us (keep in mind that this man just met us) and the place is ours! It h
as now been hours since Ali should have been home and he travels for work and had not seen his family in 15 days - and yet, here he is bartering for these strangers he met on a train. We didn't ask for any of this kindness! It was remarkable!We try to offer to buy him dinner or to do something for him but he insists that he does not want that
- instead, he says, when we go home to our countries and people ask what the people are like, he wants us to tell people that Muslims are kind and that they are not terrorists, as some people in the West think. I was deeply touched by his kindness and saddened that this was was his one wish- not to be misunderstood by my part of the world. We saw him several times w
hile we were in Alexandria - we would meet at night and drink tea on the beach (see below). It was lovely.


We went with him to his home and met his daughters - a lovely lovely experience. I could not have been happier that the three of happen to be idiots who left their passports at home. We hired Ayman to be our driver for a few days- in part to repay the kindness both men showed us
that night and also because he was a great guy and we enjoyed his company.
My travel companions: Billy and Ryan (the other Western teachers at my school)
and our new friend, Ayman.


The trip was nice - we saw some sights: the catacombs where a guide explained all about the
process of transporting the mummies through the tombs and the makings and statues and what they meant, a fort made partially from the remains of the lighthouse (one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World) that was destroyed, where we stood and watched the waves crashing on the shore and marveled at the beautiful view of the city, ruins of the ancient city which has largely been destroyed because it was a constant war site for so many years...anyway a lovely visit. For me it is nice to be out with the two male American teachers that I work with. Being with a man changes everything in this part of the world. While the harassment does not stop, it frees me up to experience the people in a way that I can't alone. We stopped and had tea with a man who was sitting out on the street in front of his seafood shop which looked to me like he and his employees were the sole customers, with a mountain of fish and fishbones (and no plates) piled on top of newspaper on a fold up table. I would never be able to do something like this alone - I can see how different of an experience it is to be a man in this country. Anyway, it was a great little getaway that left us refreshed and ready to meet the little ones.

Saturday, October 9, 2010

Greetings From Egypt's Worst Belly Dancer

Close your eyes and imagine a bachelorette party. Got it? Okay now close your eyes and imagine a bachelorette party for an Egyptian Muslim woman. What comes to mind? Yeah, I didn't know what to expect either.

In true Egyptian fashion I was told Wednesday that I would be picked up Thursday for a bachelorette party..this was all I knew. What does one wear to a bachelorette party in Egypt you might ask?! Yeah I wondered too...anyway the ladies picked me up and they were all dressed in their usual clothes: conservative, veiled. I was dressed appropriately so that was fine. Anyway after a lot of dancing to Egyptian music in the car, we arrive. We walked up to the villa, which is covered in strings of lights and notice that there are lots of men around. "Ok, I think..maybe I had the wrong idea" so we are told to go up to the roof and as soon as we step out it is like I have stepped into a North American club (except that it is all women - and there were a few older women in traditional dress): I look out at a sea of short, low-cut dresses and long hair.... I look over at the women I came with and I feel like I have been transported into a movie about high school, where the young girls get to school and take off the top layer to reveal the much more revealing outfit that they weren't allowed to wear in front of their parents. Now the clothes themselves, of course are not shocking to me (although I am one of the more conservatively dressed at this point...interesting reversal) it is just that I see these women every day and I have never seen their hair or their wrists, and who are just as conservative in attitude and mannerisms as they are in dress. It really was something. Some of them take me a moment to recognize. I quickly realize that the men are just downstairs greeting and guarding while the women do their thing. There were tarps put up all around the area so you could not see anything from the street or neighbouring villas.

There is a lot of loud Egyptian music and lots of belly dancing. I am, as the title suggests, the worst belly dancer imaginable - even with the lessons that took place at this party. At one point the lady of the evening leaves and then returns, having traded in her hot pink cocktail dress for a little black number adorned with the belly dancer accessories (you know the jangling belt thing and such) and she goes to the middle of the dance floor and dances while we make a dancing circle around her and cheer her on with our clapping. This happened several times, she would disappear and come back in a new outfit belly dancing outfit (including a sparkly-purple-bikini-top-with-skirt-with-a-slit-all-the-way-up number) which was sometimes accompanied by matching props (such as a gold cane). It was quite the experience. I wish I could show you all pictures but, of course I can't. It was amazing to see a totally different side of these women. I would not have felt comfortable wearing the outfits or doing the dance moves that they were up to - me...from the West. I kept thinking "Is this really happening? Am I the shy, conservative, modest one?" - quite the unexpected role reversal. I don't even know if I can fully express this - I think you may need to be here every day to really be as blown away by it all as I was. It gave me a better understanding of what they must be like at home. Not to say that it is all belly dancing and revealing outfits but just that while the religion requires that they dress conservatively in front of men, they are just like the rest of us in the privacy of their home. There was also a woman who did henna for the bride to be - not all over the hands like in the Indian tradition but smaller ones in various places on her body - and for all of us. Once the dancing was over (around 11) they brought out tons of food and a cake that would have made me blush a little even at home, let alone here. It was a quite an experience...one that a visitor to Egypt would never get to see. As with so many things here, it left me incredibly grateful for this amazing opportunity.

Friday, October 1, 2010

I Have Found my Fruit Man....



I love everything about the fruit stands in third world countries. I love buying fruit from them. I love watching people and their interactions with each other while they buy and sell fruit. I love just seeing the stands - there is something so lovely about it that I can't quite explain. I especially like the sellers that sell from baskets attached to bicycles or better yet, donkeys. I even like seeing the stacks of empty wicker crates after they unload the fruit. Really. I love everything about them. I realize this more than ever when I look through pictures that I have taken (both here in Egypt and in other countries) and realize that there are more pictures of fruit stands than of anything else (with the exception of little Jemma) So what is it? Is it some romanticized vision of a simple life walking along with your donkey friend selling mangos? ( I recognize that this is not accurate or fair at all and odd in fact for I don't have the same silly perception of the lives of people selling ANYTHING other than fruit) Is it the way they use an old fashioned balance with weights and if how much you have taken weighs too much or too little they either add another of whatever item you are buying or take some out...without a thought? Is it the randomness of it when they turn to you and give you an amount that you owe (which of course is nowhere near the real price)? Is it nothing more than the bright colours and the way they are stacked next to each other?

Anyway, when I first arrived I was visiting different fruit stands. There was the one where the seller always asked me to be his fourth wife and the one where the man always made his son talk to me (I assume because he wanted his son to learn English) - our conversations consist
ed of "My name is Melissa", "My name is Mohamed", which we would repeat a few times (it should be known that I loved this fruit seller but he was never there when I tried to go back and some creepy man was at his stand instead). There are also many who insist on talking to me in full Arabic sentence despite my very clear lack of understanding. Sometimes they would repeat it a few times, sometimes slower, sometimes louder - as if this
would help. So it was hard to narrow it down to one but I have done it... I now have my Egyptian fruit man and life is grand. We are always happy to see each other... I try my hand at Arabic conversation and I think he thinks I understand more of what he says than I do (which is next to none) and as I leave he always gives me a present - typically a peach or some mint. But it isn't the free mint... I think that having someone who knows you are and expects you every few days goes a long way to making a place feel like home. See you tomorrow fruit man!


This post is dedicated to my darling brother - the original fruit master.

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Oops...


So... it was just brought to my attention by my blog stalker (aka my mother) who told me (about three seconds after I posted it) that my last posting used the date that I first saved it - which was last week so it is not the most recent listed (in order to figure this out she must be re-reading the old ones - really Mom?!) Anyway so...for anyone who cares there is a new one but it dated September 12 so you will need to scroll down to meet Jemma.


Sunday, September 12, 2010

One Month Ago Today...

One month ago today I said farewell to my amazing family and wonderful friends and kissed my beautiful dogs goodbye. I climbed into the car, bawling, knowing that it would be so long before I could see them again. Before long I was here - in Egypt - navigating my way through the fascinating culture and seeking to understand what makes it different and the same and trying to find a way to fit into it.
Here are a few things I have learned so far:

1) Do not even attempt to buy band-aids or nail files here. You can find them no problem but neither do the one thing that they are made to do.

2) Egyptians love bread. If I am shopping and have not picked up bread people will tell me to get some. Recently I mentioned this to someone and was told interestingly, that the word for bread “aish” means “to live"...fitting.

3)Egyptians also seem to love sugar. For example, if you tell them you don’t want sugar in tea they say “one” and then when you say no they say "one" again, then if you agree to that they keep increasing the number. This interaction never ceases to make me laugh.

4) Don’t expect anything to be done when it is supposed to be done. Things happen when they happen. Insha’allah. We are still waiting for books (among other things) that were supposed to arrive weeks ago. This does not seem odd to anyone. Just go with it.

5) You get paid in cash. In an envelope. I feel like a mobster.

6) Sheesha really is everywhere. If you walk through the souk at night you are surrounded by puffs of smoke and the smell fills the air. What is surprising to me is that it smells delicious!

7) Missing your dogs doesn't get better as time goes on.

8)If you are a 12 year old Egyptian boy you better get these little firework things. They light them on fire and throw the flaming whatever it is onto the grass, then it makes this obnoxiously loud bang. There are burn marks all over the grass and the lovely sound of gunshots can be heard every 5 minutes or so.

10) This is a great place to be a vegetarian (mmm fuul and falafel and hummus) BUT don't try to explain this to someone. Even the words "no meat" (which I can say in Arabic) are met with "ok chicken" or complete confusion. Then the rice comes out with beef in it....hmmm.

11)You can get absolutely everything delivered here. Everything. Anything. My personal favourite: a single sheet of aspirin can be purchased and delivered for under 40 cents. Yousee the delivery guys for the various stores sitting on their bikes all over the city. It seems that I could live without ever leaving the house.

12) Interesting questions that are asked frequently: Are you married? What is your religion? How much do you make? These things seem to play an important role in the makeup of one's identity here.

12) Drink mango juice from the stands on the street whenever you can. It is served with a spoon and has chunks of mango in it. The. most. amazing. thing. It is like a drive through/sit down restuarant. You drive up and they come take your order, bring you your drink in a glass then you drink it in the car and they come take the glass back and you pay.

13) There are stray dogs and cats everywhere in Egypt (dogs are limited in the city I live in because it is gated so they don't let them in). I have as of yet not had any luck with trying to get these little creatures to follow me home. I have been feeding two tiny kittens that hang out near my building. Still hopeful that I can train them to be dogs - I have the clicker all ready, Courtney so not to worry!

14) Emails/blog comments/messages of any sort from home make my day...so thanks to all of you. Also, I am very lucky to have such fantastic family and friends.

15)Bills are paid here by handing cash to the man who knocks on your door and yells an amount to you along with a lot of Arabic words that of course I don’t understand.

16)Getting around in Egypt without Arabic is not working.

Happy One Month in Egypt to Me!

And Just Like That....



And just like that my apartment is not so empty. Instead it is full of laughter and love and puppy feet. It finally feels like a home.

The story: About a week ago I was wandering through the souk (market) and I came across a pet store with a crate full of puppies inside. I did not see anyone working there but I stood outside the store for quite awhile watching the puppies. I knew better than to go in...I knew holding a puppy would be a mistake. After awhile I gave in and oohed and aahed at the puppies through the crate. Anyway I resisted as long as I could but before long I had takenall the puppies out, fallen in love with one in particular, given her a nameand was snuggling and playing with her in the pet store. I was there almost four hours that night. For the next week I went every night to visit herand was always there a few hours. How I missed puppy cuddles. I quickly became a part of the family. The teaguy would come to deliver their tea and they would get me one, they pass around cookies. A few nights ago they told me to take her home for a few days - I guess they knew that this was the only way to get rid of me!
She was really dirty and in need of some love. She spends allher time in a really dirty crate with what looks like very
uncomfortable bars on the bottom. I was sooo excited to get her home! She is now looking marvelous. What a difference a bath, a nice walk, a nail clipping, a homemade meal (they have her on really bad food), some snuggles and a nice bed makes!
I am the happiest I have been since I got here. We have no toys so we play fetch with Egyptian lemons (they are little balls) that I freeze for her. Life is so much sweeter with a puppy.

So that this isn't just me raving about my newest baby - which you are all used to listening to me do at home Isuppose I should add in something cultural. Dogs are not beloved like they are back home. There is certainly no buying them jackets and strollers and toys and all the silly things thatpeople do back home. But more than that they are quite rough and even neglectful. This is hard for me to watch. I have been trying to understand this more. According to Islam animals should be treated kindly (I think this just means that you should not abuse them though) but should not be treated, well... the way mine (and most others in the West) are. It is preferable to keep them outside. Dogs are permitted as a way to guard the property but are not raised to sleep in your bed or be best friends. One of the children that live near me said that she has a puppy that is the same age but it can't go outside yet...because if it does it will get used to people. I guess they are right - my puppy raising methods makes pretty horrendous guard dogs. Also, before praying you have to do "wudu" or cleanse(hands, ear, feet etc.) and apparently if you have touched a dog there is a special cleansing that you are supposed to do- with sand to remove more of the dirt. Of course, I have to mention that I learn all of this from various sources and piece it together. I was holding her and had a few of the guards stop me and motion that I should put her on the ground. Even the sweet children that live near me ( well the ones that don't jump away from her with looks of terror and/or disgust on their faces) are so rough with her - pushing her around when she gets into things and yelling at her. I am constantly telling them to be nice to her and trying to teach them about respecting animals. Of course, teaching another way to things that are so engrained in a culture is not easy and I feel like they don't even hear me because they go right back to it a minute later. Obviously they don't understand that when they do this it is like pushing my child....not okay.

The pet store breaks my heart. The dogs are in rough shape and from what I can tell they ever get out of these tiny cages. I was opening up the cage a St. Bernard puppy and the owner even said "oh no don't pick her up - she is really dirty". It took everything in me not to tell him that
she is dirty because he does not clean her cage and she is in there all day. Instead I picked her up and cuddled her and told her she was beautiful - and went home to shower.They smell awful - poor things. I have been spending all my tie thinking of ways that I can suggest being their volunteer groomer/"kennel" worker but have not yet found a way that does not imply that they are not doing a good job. It hurts my heart...sometimes I tear up watching them.

Unfortunately I wrote this about a week ago and since school started I have not had a second to go visit her. Interestingly though, one of my students, when I was telling the class about myself on the first day and brought a picture of my dogs said "isn't she dirty" and when I told her that if the dog gets dirty I give her a bath - just like people she laughed and laughed like it was the most hilarious joke she had ever heard. At least my life can keep my little ones entertained.


These are her very best "don't send me back eyes"

A few more pictures....because I can't resist.